Am here in crisp, cold, sunny Paris after a week spent attending the fashion shows in Milan. Not the greatest of weeks in Italy's fashion capital, I must say. The best shows all celebrated the varied histories and legacies of their brands.  Max Mara showed us their skills with covetable coats, Dolce & Gabbana celebrated sartorial Sicilian tailoring roots, Prada raided their archive of twisted sixties librarian sexpot chic and Gianfranco Ferre reinvented the masters' legacy.

Today, Paris got off to a rip roaring start with hot Indian designer Manish Arora's show, where models paraded down a runway set in the exclusive Lycée Henri IV in the fifth arrondissement. Methinks it was much harder to get into today than exam day. The girls were sporting fluoro Crayola-bright make-up and synthetic hairpieces that somehow worked with the cyber techno sequined striped leggings, vests, jackets and dresses worn with gaiter-strapped cyber booties covered in Sputnik-like crystals. My favorite section of this otherworldly show were the futuristic art nouveau dresses printed in blue, green and gold and the finale of twirling fiber-optic headgear. Strike one to Paris.

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Just finished day two of the Milan Fall/Winter 2010 fashion shows, hopefully there will be no more internet snafus to prevent me from reporting this evening.

Started off this morning at a very chic villa (with outdoor pool) right in the heart of Milan for the Tod's accessory presentation. The key stories here are  high heel ankle boots and flat boots referencing outdoorsy hiking boots. There is a very strong trend both here and in New York for all things camping (the outdoor activity!) Fur bags were also strong here but my favorites were the crumpled leather multi zip biker bags and calf high boots, gotta love some tough chic.

Then it was onto and into the clear plastic tent where Alberta Ferretti always shows on Via Senato Classic Ferretti plisse dresses trimmed with crystals were shown alongside wool knee length full skirted coats and fitted suits with full skirts with back volume 9 bustle like) which reminded me of updated edwardian skating clothes. following on with that retro vibe were Suits and dresses trimmed or covered with passmenterie ribbon details, even the ankle booties didn't escape this treatment but the stand outs for me were the "nurses" cape in Emerald green mohair and the bias cut goddess gowns in ivory satin or tea rose chiffon with crystal collars on nude tulle and crystal straps. Red carpet anyone?

Spring's ethereal fragile beauty was left at the door this season by the boys at Gianfranco Ferre (names Aquilano Raimondi) Instead her harder edged, structured and strident big sister hit the runway. suits, coats and dresses were tightly belted and  intricately seamed and panelled  in leather,wool and fur usually in the one outfit. Wide belts highlighted the structured silhouette which opened in shades of black and moved into white, camel and gold. Some of the best cocktail dresses I have seen so far strode down the runway. Intricate gold beading was fused with woven gold suede with techniques I cannot describe! they were heaven. All this topped off with more red carpet ready black jersey gowns with gold or crystal panels.

Emporio Armani went soft and drapey  yet  urban this afternoon. Chic crop fur jackets were worn with short satin dirndl skirts in shades of chocolate, pewter and black. Slithery silks also showed up in relaxed tapered pants with drapey tops in taupe. The urban motif appeared with strict short skirted suits with black plexiglass collars which were then followed by 2 uber chic black draped dresses. There was a definite hard/soft motif here this afternoon as Evening wear wafted by in layers of amethyst and gray layered organza or chiffon pieces offset by boyish bowl cut hair.

For the next week Style Director Mark Connolly will be hopping from lofts to salons to the big canvas tent thingys plopped down in Bryant Park all in the name of the mad, exciting, creatively frantic happening that is New York Fashion Week.

Thursday, Feb. 18, 9:38 p.m.
Calvin Klein
The Calvin Klein show this afternoon was a perfect master class in art and commerce. Francisco Costa sent out a collection that women will want to buy, editors will want to shoot, and savvy actresses will want to wear. Limiting the color palette to black, pewter, indigo, dove gray, and ivory with a flash of painterly blue kept the collection focused. Jackets and coats had full raglan sleeves with darted seamed waists. The sheath dresses shimmered with a techno sheen and artful draping, pants were skinny, and shoes were super high. A truly modern collection.

Wednesday, Feb. 17, 10:32 p.m.
Michael Kors
The number one designer for chic, luxe American sportswear with a jet set attitude is Michael Kors. His ad campaigns feature models living an idealized paparazzi-worthy globetrotting lifestyle. Private jets, helicopters, yachts—what recession? He is truly in touch with his customers' aspirations, and his show this morning made that perfectly clear. All of the current trends were present: military, urban country, metallics, utility and great knits. Where are the models traveling to in these runway looks? Who cares. I want to be there now, especially in the men's grey cashmere military coat.

Tuesday, Feb. 16, 6:11 p.m.
Derek Lam
Oh joy of joys, stepped outside this morning ready to face fashion's finest into a full on blizzard. Ran onto the subway covered in snow and by the time I got to the Lower East Side I am sure I was smelling like a wet dog. (Well, I was wearing a wool pea coat from Rag and Bone—I refuse to give into the demands of the weather.) The show was worth braving the elements, though. Pocahontas meets uptown biker chick is the easiest way to explain the tough tailoring often trimmed and paneled with black leather sleeves, aprons, biker pants with fringed belts and Navajo beading. Loved the two black and white draped goddess gowns at the end.

Tuesday, Feb. 16, 5:30 p.m.
Rodarte
The hot ticket in town this week was for Rodarte. I was excited to see how they could top last season's ethnic-tribal-warrior mash-up and they didn't disappoint. Thick hand-knit jackets were worn over layered skirts with crystal chiffon leggings, ankle socks and high heels, all in tea rose and facepowder shades. Tattered 30s bias cut floral dresses were entwined with multi-fabric swags like Blanche DuBois after her meltdown. The final gowns were four Miss Havisham-like ivory wedding dresses draped with pearls and, just to top it off, the heels lit up in the dark. Sheer madness. Utter brilliance.

Monday, Feb. 15, 9:38 p.m
Marc Jacobs
New York's resident bad boy Marc Jacobs could always be relied upon for at least a two-hour delay in starting. His PR flacks would call to say the show was going to be late so that we weary editors could grab a much-earned bite and a drink on Park Avenue South (tradition!). All changed a few seasons ago when Vogue's Anna Wintour complained about the late starts.

Woe betide anyone who is not in her seat by the appointed hour.  Jacobs now shows on time—if not a few minutes early. So, yours truly had this evening planned like a military operation, table at Dos Caminos booked at 6:45, appetizers and drinks ordered by 7, check ordered at 7:45, out by 7:55 for a one-block walk. However, he started the show just before 8, so I had to watch from the sidelines. The beautifully subdued and elegant show was worth the discomfort. It seemed as if in both the staging (an open-sided box) and the music ("Somewhere Over the Rainbow") were paying subtle tribute to the recently departed Alexander McQueen. If so, bravo.

Sunday, Feb. 14, 8:12 p.m.
OK, I can't take it anymore. I am sick of freezing my assets off in sub zero conditions, running all over Manhattan to get to fashion shows on time. Why are they all back to back on the hour (sometimes several at the same time) in totally different parts of the city that are impossible to get to by public transport or in an impossible-to-find taxi? I hate going to Pier 59 on the West Side highway, then Soho then West Chelsea, and finally the Upper East Side armory.  Brutal, and not conducive to sharing the love.

I am loving the menswear influence on womenswear, though, and the strong Helmut Lang vibe and chic military touches. Menswear in general has been the highlight of this week, see Phillip Lim urban warrior and Rag & Bone's grunge alpine collections.

Early to bed now for a 9 a.m. Zac Posen! It had better be stellar!!!  

Friday, Feb. 12, 2:22 p.m.
Jason Wu
This young and fast developing designer is a firm favorite of Michelle Obama. On a softly lit  chocolate box pink runway, he showed a deft hand with masculine / feminine mixes along with rich autumnal shades, soft tulle overleaf feather dresses and exquisite gold painted satin sheaths.  Definitely a lot to choose from for the First Lady.

Friday, Feb. 12, 1:04 p.m. ET
Rag & Bone
At last something great to shout about. Rag and Bone's menswear show in Soho loft space. Grungy military Canadian lumberjacks: perfect for our current icy conditions. Loved it want it need it now.

As the Style Director for Condé Nast Traveler, a solar shower was never, ever on my Christmas gift list, but Santa knows best!  I am leaving for a very cheap and chic vacation in Goa, India staying in eco-friendly huts right on Agonda Beach. Alas, there is only a cold water shower and my number one pet hate is cold water. So, enter the black garbage bag with a hose that I must fill up and place in the sun to get four showers worth of hot water. Can’t wait to see how it works. And yes, I also bought some travel soap powder with me (can’t give up the clean, fresh undies).

Stansport Jumbo Camper's Shower, around $15

Just back from a photo shoot in Miami  for the March issue of Traveler. I really wanted to share some behind-the-scenes moments with you. We stayed at The Viceroy hotel, which is in the up-and-coming soon-to-be-trendy downtown business district.  This is definitely not South Beach. You are surrounded by lots of new condos, not far from Little Havana, and you're a lot closer to some of Miami’s cooler bars and restaurants in the Design district. We loved Michelle Bernstein's hot new Spanish Tapas restaurant Sra. Martinez.

I cannot believe we went all the way to Miami and ended up shooting in an underground car park! Mind you, this was not just any car park: the Easter Island-like statues were designed by Phillipe Starck.



Click after the jump for more photos from the shoot.
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Tuesday we brought you my gift ideas; yesterday Hyla Bauer told us what she's giving friends and family this year. Today we have four presents on Condé Nast Traveler's Associate Style and Accessories Editor Tiffany Gifford's wish list:

Diane Von Furstenberg African Women Artisans Collection Cuffs: "Telephone and copper wire are the two main ingredients in these cuffs, believe it or not. Made by Zulu women from Sizwe Umoja, proceeds from the purchase of these bracelets provide them with training and access to global distribution. And with the runways rampant with tribal influences, how better to hop on that trend bandwagon?" ($40 for the small, $60 for the large; dvf.com)

Louis Vuitton Custom Dog Crate: "If you can’t get your pooch a seat on Pet Airways, here’s the next best thing. The Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs (a fellow dog lover), has just designed this custom crate. It’s a special-order item, but that means you can and add any other bells and whistles you like. Maybe a second story guest room?" (Price upon request; go to louisvuitton.com for information on a custom order)

Yosi Samara “Samara” Fold Up Ballet Flat: "Going barefoot on a flight is a little too comfortable for me. These ballet flats feel like air but still give me some coverage—and they come in every color in the rainbow. I actually use mine as my “commuter shoes;” a quick switcheroo when I get off the subway and I’m office-ready" ($50; yosisamra.com).

Graphic Image Travel Clutch: "Let it be known, my handbag is a black hole. This wallet helps me keep my travel documents organized and in quick reach, and I love the dusted gold finish. It can even double as an evening clutch" ($198; graphicimage.com).

More from the gift guide
My fashion picks
Hyla's wish list
The Gift of Wine
Holiday Shopping for Food Fanatics
One WOM-Minded Gift: Robert Adams's Summer Nights, Walking

As promised, today we have some holiday shopping picks from Executive Fashion Editor Hyla Bauer:

David Yurman Classic Chronograph Timepiece: "This latest model from David Yurman has all of the mechanical features that watch collectors covet. Its looks are crave-worthy, too: Stainless steel on black with alligator strap, this is one to wear for many years to come" ($4,500; davidyurman.com for boutiques).

Brooks Brothers Wrinkle-Resistant Blue Stripe Pajamas: "The classic pajamas updated—no more ironing! I find that comfortable and breathable cotton pleases even the most difficult men (and women!) on my shopping list" ($79.50; brooksbrothers.com).

Elyse Allen for EILEEN FISHER Crystal Rain Glovelettes: "These 'glovelettes' combine just the right amount of style and substance: Swarovski crystals for sparkle, soft merino wool for warmth, and free fingers for driving and texting (but not at the same time)" ($118; eileenfisher.com).

Verdura “Night and Day” Necklace: "This mimics the cuff links Verdura originally made for Cole Porter to commemorate his famous song, “Night and Day.” For the globetrotters out there, the necklace can be personalized with a diamond marking any location that holds special meaning for you" ($24,500 for 18 karat gold, diamond and enamel necklace; to purchase, email info@verdura.com).

Check in tomorrow for gift ideas from Tiffany Gifford, Condé Nast Traveler's Associate Style and Accessories Editor.

More from the gift guide
My fashion picks
The Gift of Wine
Holiday Shopping for Food Fanatics
One WOM-Minded Gift: Robert Adams's Summer Nights, Walking

As Style Director for Condé Nast Traveler, I travel the world with my team in search of all things stylish. Here are some of our exotic and homegrown finds that I think will transport you wherever you need to go to this holiday season:
 
Cire Trudon Candle: One of the most exquisite shopping experiences I have ever had was at the quaint and quirky Cire Trudon candle store in Paris.  Inhaling the aromas of these fragrant candles, which date back to the late 17th century and were once a favorite of Napoleon Bonaparte, was done by lifting the giant glass bell jars that covered them. With evocative names such as Odalisque, Roi Soleil, revolution and Trianon, you can make your home smell like Versailles ($75; barneys.com or ciretrudon.com for other retailers).
 
Dzongkha Eau de Toilette by L’Artisan Parfumeur: I adore wearing a fragrance that transports me to a destination that I have experienced—or one that I wish to. The subtle aromas of smoke, incense, old leather and wood in this scent makes me nostalgic for my trip to Bhutan ($135 for 3.4 oz.; artisanparfumeur.us).
 
Tod's Leather Tote: My Tod's bag has gone all over the world with me, squashed under airplane seats, strapped to car roof racks—I've even slept on it. The more worn it gets, the better. It's the ultimate travel tote ($1,975; tods.com for boutiques)

Banana Republic Men’s Cotton Argyle V-Neck Sweater: I just have to have one! Hint hint ($79.50; bananarepublic.com).

Check in tomorrow, when we'll post holiday gift ideas from Executive Fashion Editor Hyla Bauer.

More from the gift guide
Holiday Shopping for Food Fanatics
The Gift of Wine
One WOM-Minded Gift: Robert Adams's Summer Nights, Walking

You have your initials gold-stamped on the Smythson currency case, and you can label each pocket for easy organization, comme moi.

As the Style Director for Condé Nast Traveler, an important part of my job is to attend all of the fashion shows in Europe and New York twice a year.

It’s a tough job, but somebody’s gotta do it. Even tougher though is keeping track of receipts and foreign currency for one month. This season I started in New York then headed off to London for the 25th anniversary of London fashion week followed by Milan and finally Paris.

If it hadn’t been for my super chic trusty Smythson Mara Zipped Currency Case, I would never have made it through in such a stylish and fiscally sound manner. 

One very elegant crocodile wallet, four fluoro-bright customized zippers, each holding currency and receipts from each of the four fashion capitals. Just save everything up in each of the compartments, switch out the different currencies when needed and forget about the contents until you return.

The only complaint I have about this piece is that I wanted to show it off, flash it about, take it out with me as it is the chicest accessory—but it’s not a clutch bag! Maybe I could talk with Smythson about a pocket version?

You read the blog post, "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star: Fashion's New Darling is Born in Milan," now watch the movie of Becca's big day in Milan. Follow her transformation (with a little help from hair, makeup and wardrobe) from squeaky clean schoolgirl to full-on fashionista. Check out the Emporio Armani show, next season's hottest shoes at Sergio Rossi, and lunch at my favorite Milanese restaurant Bagutta. Oh, and keep an eye on the paparazzi; they can make a girl an overnight sensation.

Well, my work is done.  Next up... Wendy Perrin who will be meeting Becca's world traveling family in the next couple months for another Condé Nast Traveler Dream List adventure.  In the meantime, follow Becca and her family's on the road adventures at their blog, World School.