Tasteful Musings from Condé Nast Traveler's Style Director
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Fall 2010 Essentials

Herein, four new additions—one old favorite—to put on your fall shopping list:

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Voyage d'Hermès Fragrance: Hermès newest unisex creation is pure luxury in terms of scent and appearance. Subtle notes of leather entwine with a fresh, musky scent—perfect for late summer and throughout fall. The retractable aluminum and glass packaging opens with one touch, boasts an axis akin to a saddle tack, and is refillable. ($90 for 1.2 oz, $125 for 3.3 oz; hermes.com)


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Diptyque Figuier Verte Candle: A popular scent in the Diptyque line, Figuier Verte is comprised of fig leaves and tuberose, and evokes sensuality and warmth when burned. ($68; diptyqueparis.com)


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Yves Saint Laurent iPad Case: An extension of the house's Chyc bag and wallet, this iPad case serves as both a statement piece and a protective sheath for your newest gadget. ($795; ysl.com for boutiques)




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Smythson Fashion Diary, Damson Collection: Whether you will be attending the Spring 2011 Collections at New York Fashion Week (September 9-16), traveling abroad for the shows in London, Paris, and Milan, or perhaps attending all four, stay organized with our favorite luxury leather goods' most thoughtful addition to its line of diaries. City guides, maps, show dates, and events are provided within. ($345; smythson.com)

Antiquaires: Flea Markets of Paris: While it is best to buy fragrance, candles, and leather new, some things just grow better with age. St. Ouen, Paris' renowned antiques market, is where designers like Christian Dior drew early inspiration for their work. Compiled by author Laura Verchere and photographer Laziz Hamani, Antiquaires will be available in October—just in time for a weekend trip spent scouring the stalls. ($75, pre-order now; assouline.com)

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Global Style: Dispatches from the NYC Shoot

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Our stunning view from the penthouse
From: The Cooper Square Hotel website


SATURDAY
The last 5:30 a.m. wake-up call. Drive down to our final glamorous location under the Manhattan Bridge, does it get much better?

The whole crew is tired and napping as the hair and make up gets done which takes around two and a half hours. I'm about as tired as our catered breakfast frittata, but when the girls are dressed in their final military outfits I'm ready to roll.

Twenty minutes later, the long awaited "It's a wrap" is very welcome. Looking at the final images for the story it's clear we have hit a home run even after all of the hurdles and problems.

I can't wait to see the photos in our October issue and look forward to working with Steve again on another fashion extravaganza.

FRIDAY

4:40 p.m.
Note to self: when there is a 5:30 a.m. call time looming, resist your friends' advances with the bottle of wine—rosé reflux early in the morning is not a good way to start the day!

But what an amazing day it was, weather forecasts be damned, bright, sunny and 95 degrees perfect for our photo shoot at the Cooper Square Hotel penthouse, which in my opinion, has the best 360-degree view of the Manhattan skyline in all of New York.

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Our truly multi-cultural band of models, Yana from Russia, Xioyi from China, and Fatima from Sudan, have been real troopers wearing heavy winter clothes, furs and plastic during this heat wave. Hair and make-up have also made the shoot stellar, as seen in this pic of Colin and Munemi, hard at work behind the scenes.

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Making our models even more prettier—if possible!

Last 5:30 a.m. call is Saturday, for the last shot (urban military) underneath the Brooklyn Bridge, no wine for me tonight!

9:54 a.m.
Up at 5:15, in the office by 6:30, loaded up by 6:50, and on location by 7 a.m. Still waiting for hair and make up to be finished at 10 a.m., but it's looking good. First shot is the new bourgeoisie chic look all brocade fur and plastic and at a projected 94 degrees with humidity the models are going to suffer for their art!
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Global Style Shoot: Location, Location, Location

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Rails of potential pieces lined up.  All I need are the models.

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any tougher, the heavens opened up here in NY and have threatened to remain that way for the duration of our shoot, which, by the way is all outdoors!

There is not much we can do about it as my shoots in Traveler are all about location, location, location. Speaking of which, my first choices of suitable locations are dropping like flies too. Seems like the various parks commissions we have been dealing with don’t rate photos shoots as highly as multi-million dollar movies (in which case I would probably just high-tail it to Toronto) so we are at the back of the line in waiting for permits to one location in New Jersey (can you believe!) and one near the George Washington Bridge in Washington Heights.

By mid-afternoon we have to reinvent the shoot and come up with two alternatives, now Brooklyn Bridge Park and the East River.

One problem that did get a little better after changing our plan for the story was the model situation we went from D- to B+ in the eyes of the model agents.  In 24 hours! Amazing what dropping a dozen models from your story can do....

Anyhow I’m just off to our conference room to start plowing through the acres of clothes (with designers we’re an A+) that are waiting to be propped and styled into their allotted trends (see pic above)

Wish me luck!  Our call time at the office is 6 a.m., hopefully no rain...

Operation Global Style: The NYC Shoot
Models Wanted!
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Global Style Shoot: Days Before and No Model to be Found!

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Welcome to the glorious hell that is the Condé Nast Traveler style director's job.  One would think that the after-parties alone would be worth all the pressure (the conceptualizing, the producing, the ego-soothing, etc.) involved with Traveler's monthly fashion spread.  Apparently not.  We're happy to allow Mark Connolly a place to vent his frustrations in preparing for this October's special Global Style Issue for Condé Nast Traveler.  

Who the hell was it on staff here at Traveler that said shooting in New York would be a breeze? Who was it that said it would be much cheaper than flying 7 or 8 people across the globe. Well they know jack!

It’s three days before my first big New York photo shoot, for our first ever Global Style issue no less, with renowned photographer Steve Hiett and there is not a model to be had! Oh there are plenty of them in the city alright, just not for us, not with the idea I had in mind.

See, I had an idea to shoot five of the fall seasons top trends on five different types and ethnicities of girls, three girls per double page spread 15 girls total, let’s go all out I thought, go big, go bold and fill up those pages with dynamic scenes of New York, gorgeous girls and fabulous of the minute clothes.

Not so fast! Most of the models' agents, who are difficult at best, would not let their girls share shots with another girl let alone two at the same time for a rethink methinks! So right now I am looking at the sad offerings from the model agencies trying to repackage the story with just three girls who don’t mind sharing!

Anyway at least I am excited by the trends I have chosen for the issue.  Each of the boards you see in the photos below represents one trend per board. All of the looks/outfits have been requested by me for hopeful inclusion in the magazine.

Usually if I order five looks from a designer we are lucky to get one, as most of the press samples are shared all over the globe by all of the different magazines. It’s a crap shoot especially when you are up against US Vogue and W.

Many is the time that I’ve put on my best whiny/pleading voice to prize a sample out of the Vogue closet. Good thing we are well respected in the business so we often get a lot of what we request as you can see.......

All of the tabs that you can see are the samples that have been confirmed to be sent to us by Wednesday afternoon, then on Thursday we will do a massive “run through” of all of the looks within their theme and edit them down to the best ones and then style them with their appropriate accessories and assign then a location and model.

Check in tomorrow when I find out what girls will be available for a casting and where the locations will be....to be continued

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A sampling from my "Graphic Black" board

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A sampling from my "New Luxe/ Belle Epoque" board

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A sampling from my "New Modern" board

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A sampling from my "Urban Military" board

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A sampling from my "New Cocktail Hour" board
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Paris Fall/Winter 2010

Am here in crisp, cold, sunny Paris after a week spent attending the fashion shows in Milan. Not the greatest of weeks in Italy's fashion capital, I must say. The best shows all celebrated the varied histories and legacies of their brands.  Max Mara showed us their skills with covetable coats, Dolce & Gabbana celebrated sartorial Sicilian tailoring roots, Prada raided their archive of twisted sixties librarian sexpot chic and Gianfranco Ferre reinvented the masters' legacy.

Today, Paris got off to a rip roaring start with hot Indian designer Manish Arora's show, where models paraded down a runway set in the exclusive Lycée Henri IV in the fifth arrondissement. Methinks it was much harder to get into today than exam day. The girls were sporting fluoro Crayola-bright make-up and synthetic hairpieces that somehow worked with the cyber techno sequined striped leggings, vests, jackets and dresses worn with gaiter-strapped cyber booties covered in Sputnik-like crystals. My favorite section of this otherworldly show were the futuristic art nouveau dresses printed in blue, green and gold and the finale of twirling fiber-optic headgear. Strike one to Paris.

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Milan Fall/Winter 2010

Just finished day two of the Milan Fall/Winter 2010 fashion shows, hopefully there will be no more internet snafus to prevent me from reporting this evening.

Started off this morning at a very chic villa (with outdoor pool) right in the heart of Milan for the Tod's accessory presentation. The key stories here are  high heel ankle boots and flat boots referencing outdoorsy hiking boots. There is a very strong trend both here and in New York for all things camping (the outdoor activity!) Fur bags were also strong here but my favorites were the crumpled leather multi zip biker bags and calf high boots, gotta love some tough chic.

Then it was onto and into the clear plastic tent where Alberta Ferretti always shows on Via Senato Classic Ferretti plisse dresses trimmed with crystals were shown alongside wool knee length full skirted coats and fitted suits with full skirts with back volume 9 bustle like) which reminded me of updated edwardian skating clothes. following on with that retro vibe were Suits and dresses trimmed or covered with passmenterie ribbon details, even the ankle booties didn't escape this treatment but the stand outs for me were the "nurses" cape in Emerald green mohair and the bias cut goddess gowns in ivory satin or tea rose chiffon with crystal collars on nude tulle and crystal straps. Red carpet anyone?

Spring's ethereal fragile beauty was left at the door this season by the boys at Gianfranco Ferre (names Aquilano Raimondi) Instead her harder edged, structured and strident big sister hit the runway. suits, coats and dresses were tightly belted and  intricately seamed and panelled  in leather,wool and fur usually in the one outfit. Wide belts highlighted the structured silhouette which opened in shades of black and moved into white, camel and gold. Some of the best cocktail dresses I have seen so far strode down the runway. Intricate gold beading was fused with woven gold suede with techniques I cannot describe! they were heaven. All this topped off with more red carpet ready black jersey gowns with gold or crystal panels.

Emporio Armani went soft and drapey  yet  urban this afternoon. Chic crop fur jackets were worn with short satin dirndl skirts in shades of chocolate, pewter and black. Slithery silks also showed up in relaxed tapered pants with drapey tops in taupe. The urban motif appeared with strict short skirted suits with black plexiglass collars which were then followed by 2 uber chic black draped dresses. There was a definite hard/soft motif here this afternoon as Evening wear wafted by in layers of amethyst and gray layered organza or chiffon pieces offset by boyish bowl cut hair.
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Live Blogging New York Fashion Week

For the next week Style Director Mark Connolly will be hopping from lofts to salons to the big canvas tent thingys plopped down in Bryant Park all in the name of the mad, exciting, creatively frantic happening that is New York Fashion Week.

Thursday, Feb. 18, 9:38 p.m.
Calvin Klein

The Calvin Klein show this afternoon was a perfect master class in art and commerce. Francisco Costa sent out a collection that women will want to buy, editors will want to shoot, and savvy actresses will want to wear. Limiting the color palette to black, pewter, indigo, dove gray, and ivory with a flash of painterly blue kept the collection focused. Jackets and coats had full raglan sleeves with darted seamed waists. The sheath dresses shimmered with a techno sheen and artful draping, pants were skinny, and shoes were super high. A truly modern collection.

Wednesday, Feb. 17, 10:32 p.m.
Michael Kors

The number one designer for chic, luxe American sportswear with a jet set attitude is Michael Kors. His ad campaigns feature models living an idealized paparazzi-worthy globetrotting lifestyle. Private jets, helicopters, yachts—what recession? He is truly in touch with his customers' aspirations, and his show this morning made that perfectly clear. All of the current trends were present: military, urban country, metallics, utility and great knits. Where are the models traveling to in these runway looks? Who cares. I want to be there now, especially in the men's grey cashmere military coat.

Tuesday, Feb. 16, 6:11 p.m.
Derek Lam

Oh joy of joys, stepped outside this morning ready to face fashion's finest into a full on blizzard. Ran onto the subway covered in snow and by the time I got to the Lower East Side I am sure I was smelling like a wet dog. (Well, I was wearing a wool pea coat from Rag and Bone—I refuse to give into the demands of the weather.) The show was worth braving the elements, though. Pocahontas meets uptown biker chick is the easiest way to explain the tough tailoring often trimmed and paneled with black leather sleeves, aprons, biker pants with fringed belts and Navajo beading. Loved the two black and white draped goddess gowns at the end.

Tuesday, Feb. 16, 5:30 p.m.
Rodarte

The hot ticket in town this week was for Rodarte. I was excited to see how they could top last season's ethnic-tribal-warrior mash-up and they didn't disappoint. Thick hand-knit jackets were worn over layered skirts with crystal chiffon leggings, ankle socks and high heels, all in tea rose and facepowder shades. Tattered 30s bias cut floral dresses were entwined with multi-fabric swags like Blanche DuBois after her meltdown. The final gowns were four Miss Havisham-like ivory wedding dresses draped with pearls and, just to top it off, the heels lit up in the dark. Sheer madness. Utter brilliance.

Monday, Feb. 15, 9:38 p.m
Marc Jacobs

New York's resident bad boy Marc Jacobs could always be relied upon for at least a two-hour delay in starting. His PR flacks would call to say the show was going to be late so that we weary editors could grab a much-earned bite and a drink on Park Avenue South (tradition!). All changed a few seasons ago when Vogue's Anna Wintour complained about the late starts.

Woe betide anyone who is not in her seat by the appointed hour.  Jacobs now shows on time—if not a few minutes early. So, yours truly had this evening planned like a military operation, table at Dos Caminos booked at 6:45, appetizers and drinks ordered by 7, check ordered at 7:45, out by 7:55 for a one-block walk. However, he started the show just before 8, so I had to watch from the sidelines. The beautifully subdued and elegant show was worth the discomfort. It seemed as if in both the staging (an open-sided box) and the music ("Somewhere Over the Rainbow") were paying subtle tribute to the recently departed Alexander McQueen. If so, bravo.

Sunday, Feb. 14, 8:12 p.m.
OK, I can't take it anymore. I am sick of freezing my assets off in sub zero conditions, running all over Manhattan to get to fashion shows on time. Why are they all back to back on the hour (sometimes several at the same time) in totally different parts of the city that are impossible to get to by public transport or in an impossible-to-find taxi? I hate going to Pier 59 on the West Side highway, then Soho then West Chelsea, and finally the Upper East Side armory.  Brutal, and not conducive to sharing the love.

I am loving the menswear influence on womenswear, though, and the strong Helmut Lang vibe and chic military touches. Menswear in general has been the highlight of this week, see Phillip Lim urban warrior and Rag & Bone's grunge alpine collections.

Early to bed now for a 9 a.m. Zac Posen! It had better be stellar!!!  

Friday, Feb. 12, 2:22 p.m.
Jason Wu
This young and fast developing designer is a firm favorite of Michelle Obama. On a softly lit  chocolate box pink runway, he showed a deft hand with masculine / feminine mixes along with rich autumnal shades, soft tulle overleaf feather dresses and exquisite gold painted satin sheaths.  Definitely a lot to choose from for the First Lady.

Friday, Feb. 12, 1:04 p.m. ET
Rag & Bone
At last something great to shout about. Rag and Bone's menswear show in Soho loft space. Grungy military Canadian lumberjacks: perfect for our current icy conditions. Loved it want it need it now.
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Eco-Friendly Travel Shower

Eco_Travel_Shower_091222.jpgAs the Style Director for Condé Nast Traveler, a solar shower was never, ever on my Christmas gift list, but Santa knows best!  I am leaving for a very cheap and chic vacation in Goa, India staying in eco-friendly huts right on Agonda Beach. Alas, there is only a cold water shower and my number one pet hate is cold water. So, enter the black garbage bag with a hose that I must fill up and place in the sun to get four showers worth of hot water. Can’t wait to see how it works. And yes, I also bought some travel soap powder with me (can’t give up the clean, fresh undies).

Stansport Jumbo Camper's Shower, around $15
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The Style Department Does Miami: This Is Not South Beach

Just back from a photo shoot in Miami  for the March issue of Traveler. I really wanted to share some behind-the-scenes moments with you. We stayed at The Viceroy hotel, which is in the up-and-coming soon-to-be-trendy downtown business district.  This is definitely not South Beach. You are surrounded by lots of new condos, not far from Little Havana, and you're a lot closer to some of Miami’s cooler bars and restaurants in the Design district. We loved Michelle Bernstein's hot new Spanish Tapas restaurant Sra. Martinez.

I cannot believe we went all the way to Miami and ended up shooting in an underground car park! Mind you, this was not just any car park: the Easter Island-like statues were designed by Phillipe Starck.

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Click after the jump for more photos from the shoot.
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Tuesday we brought you my gift ideas; yesterday Hyla Bauer told us what she's giving friends and family this year. Today we have four presents on Condé Nast Traveler's Associate Style and Accessories Editor Tiffany Gifford's wish list:

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Diane Von Furstenberg African Women Artisans Collection Cuffs: "Telephone and copper wire are the two main ingredients in these cuffs, believe it or not. Made by Zulu women from Sizwe Umoja, proceeds from the purchase of these bracelets provide them with training and access to global distribution. And with the runways rampant with tribal influences, how better to hop on that trend bandwagon?" ($40 for the small, $60 for the large; dvf.com)

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Louis Vuitton Custom Dog Crate: "If you can’t get your pooch a seat on Pet Airways, here’s the next best thing. The Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs (a fellow dog lover), has just designed this custom crate. It’s a special-order item, but that means you can and add any other bells and whistles you like. Maybe a second story guest room?" (Price upon request; go to louisvuitton.com for information on a custom order)

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Yosi Samara “Samara” Fold Up Ballet Flat: "Going barefoot on a flight is a little too comfortable for me. These ballet flats feel like air but still give me some coverage—and they come in every color in the rainbow. I actually use mine as my “commuter shoes;” a quick switcheroo when I get off the subway and I’m office-ready" ($50; yosisamra.com).

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Graphic Image Travel Clutch: "Let it be known, my handbag is a black hole. This wallet helps me keep my travel documents organized and in quick reach, and I love the dusted gold finish. It can even double as an evening clutch" ($198; graphicimage.com).

More from the gift guide
My fashion picks
Hyla's wish list
The Gift of Wine
Holiday Shopping for Food Fanatics
One WOM-Minded Gift: Robert Adams's Summer Nights, Walking

About World of Style

As Style Director, Mark Connolly is Condé Nast Traveler's leading expert on fashion and style and has produced more than 100 fashion photo shoots for the magazine.